Kimonos are the
traditional dress of Japan. The word kimono is a Japanese word that literally
translates as “thing to wear”. The kimono is an elaborate robe worn by both men
and women in traditional Japan. Today they are mainly used for ceremonial
purposes, traditional dances and weddings, and even can be used as home décor.
Due to the modernization of Japanese clothing styles, kimonos are now seen as a
sort of window into the past. I began my research by reading the novel The Makioka Sisters, by Junichiro
Tanizaki. This novel is a fictional story of a family of four sisters who live
in Japan in the 1930’s, as the country is preparing to fight in World War II.
By this time most people had made the switch from the traditional Japanese
kimonos to western style clothes, however, the Makioka family preferred to
stick with the traditional kimonos.
The
kimono is very elaborate and is made up of several parts. These parts consist
of:
-
Doura- the upper lining on a woman’s
kimono
-
Eri- the collar
-
Fuki- the hem guard
-
Sode- the sleeve below the armhole
-
Obi- a belt used to tuck excess cloth
away so that it remains unseen
-
Maemigoro- the front main panel (does
not include the sleeves); divided into the “right maemigoro” and the “left
maemigoro”
-
Miyatsukuchi- the opening underneath the
sleeves
-
Okumi- the front inside panel on the
front edge of the left and right panels (does not include sleeves); reaches
from the collar down to the hem
-
Sode- the sleeves
-
Sodeguchi- sleeve opening
-
Sodetsuke- the kimono armhole
-
Susomawashi- the lower lining
-
Tamoto- the sleeve pouch
-
Tomoeri- the collar protector
(over-collar)
-
Uraeri- the inner collar
-
Ushiromigoro- the main panel that covers
the back (does not include the sleeves); consists of the “right ushiromigoro”
and the “left ushiromigoro”
Not only
are there many parts that go into the kimono, but there are also many different
styles of kimonos. One type of kimono is the furisode, which literally translates to “swinging sleeves”. The
sleeves on this type of kimono are generally anywhere between 39 to 42 inches
long. The furisode kimono is the most
formal type of kimono for unmarried women in Japan. They usually have very
colorful patterns that cover the entirety of the kimono. Furisode are worn at the coming-of-age ceremony, which will be
happening while we are in Tokyo, and at weddings by unmarried relatives of the
bride.
Another
style of kimono is the Homongi
meaning “the visiting wear”. The homongi
is recognized by patterns that go over the shoulders, the seams, and the
sleeves. This type of kimono can be worn by either a married woman or an
unmarried woman. In weddings, friends of the bride will often wear homongi to the wedding (this does not
include relatives). Homongi can also
be worn to formal parties.
Iromuji is a
single-colored kimono that is worn by both married and unmarried women. The name
Iromuji literally translates to solid
or plain color. These are mainly worn to tea ceremonies.
One of
the more casual styles of kimono is the komon
kimono. This style can also be worn by either married or unmarried women, and
can be worn on any normal day. This style is characterized y the small,
repeated pattern covering the kimono.
The mofuku is a formal mourning kimono that
is unisex. Mofuku is a plain black
silk kimono that is worn over white undergarments. This is usually saved for
family members or close friends that have passed away.
Another style
is the irotomesode which is only
patterned below the waist line and is a single-colored kimono. This type of
kimono can be worn by married or unmarried women and is usually worn at
weddings by close family members of the bride and the groom or at the medal
ceremony.
The kurotomesode is a black kimono that,
similar to the irotomesode, is only
patterned below the waist line. These are, at weddings, worn by the mothers of
the bride and groom and are the most formal kimono for married women.
Tsukesage is similar to
the homongi, the main difference
being the size of the pattern. The tsukesage
is more formal than the homongi and
may also be worn by married women. This kimono is generally worn for parties,
not ceremonies.
The Uchikake is a wedding kimono worn only
by the bride or it can be worn at stage performances. This is actually worn
outside of the kimono and obi, sort of like a coat.
Susohiki or Hikizuri are usually
worn by geisha or maiko (a geisha in training). The name translates to “trail
the skirt”. These are generally longer that the normal kimono so that the skirt
will drag on the ground.
Men’s kimonos are generally much simpler that women’s kimonos,
having fewer parts to the kimono. The sleeves of a man’s kimono are much
shorter than those on a woman’s kimono and are completely attached to the body
of the kimono unlike those of a woman’s kimono. Men’s kimonos are generally
colored with dark colors, such as black, dark blues, greens, and browns.
References:
-Tess M. (Class of 2016)
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