For our last night in Japan, we had the privilege of attending a lovely shabu-shabu dinner. While the food was great, the company was even better. We were joined for dinner not only by two of our tour guides from the trip but a real Japanese maiko! When she first floated into the room, we were all struck by her beauty. That, and we were no longer the palest people in Japan. Her makeup was amazing, a white foundation that covered her entire face and stunning red eyeshadow. To be perfectly honest, I'm considering putting her makeup style on the look-book for possible winter formal options. Later, I asked her what it felt like the first time she put on her makeup and looked into the mirror. She replied that she felt as if she no longer looked like herself. She asked, "Would you like to wear all white makeup every day?" The answer: If that is an option, yes.
She performed two different dances for us. Both of which she had no facial expressions, copying the tradition of the Noh theater. While dancing, she was captivating. I couldn't take my eyes off her! By the time she was finished dancing, we were all eager to ask her questions. First, we each got to take pictures with her but we were all afraid to get too close to her and somehow mess up her perfectly tied kimono by stepping on the sleeves.
We learned many things about her. She is nineteen years old, only two years older than I am! It is strange to think that despite being so close in age, we couldn't be more different in lifestyle. While my daily life consists of studying for tests and hanging out with friends, her life consists of taking lessons in tea ceremony and spending hours entertaining clients.
The process of becoming a maiko is long. Girls are no longer sold into an okiya by their family like they used to be but now it is completely by choice. There are only about two hundred maiko and geiko in Kyoto. While applying to become a maiko, you must be interviewed by the house mother and if she likes you, you're in. Apparently, many girls apply to become maiko online these day, which we all found rather humorous due to the low-tech life they lead. Speaking of which, maiko (apprentice geiko) work for five years before becoming full-fledged geiko and during those five years there is no technology allowed. No cellphones, no computers, no iPads. You can forget about sending her a friend request on Facebook. They aren't allowed to contact any of their old friends and if they see them on the streets, they are only allowed to speak in traditional Kyoto dialect. But even more so, imagine a life where you can only see your family once a year. Our maiko explained to us that she works basically every day of the year, but on rare days off she can wear jeans, let down her hair, and go to McDonalds. Yes, you read right, McDonalds. Next time you feel bad eating the classic guilt food that comes in a colorful white and red bag, just remember that you are eating the personal favorite food of a traditional Japanese maiko and maybe then your Happy Meal will seem just a bit happier. After the five years of being a maiko are over, during which there is no payment, a maiko can decide if she wants to become a geiko or not. If she decides to, then she will be self-employed. This means that she can live in a condominium in the district, own a cell phone, and make her own rules.
Why did she want to become a maiko? The answer was simple: she loved kimonos. Her grandmother owned a kimono shop in which she used to dress up when she was little. At the age of fourteen, she told her parents what she wanted to do. At first, they did not approve. This life was not their wish for her. Now, she said, they understand.
More than anything, we were fascinated by her daily life. She lives in a house in Gion with many other maiko. They are all looked after by a house mother who owns the kimonos they wear and provides all of their meals. Her hair is styled once a week and yes, the elaborate hairstyles of a maiko are not wigs but their true hair. It takes about an hour to do each style which Gracie laughed at because it takes two hours to cut her hair! Next time you get your hair styled, you can think to yourself after the one hour mark, "If I were a maiko, I'd be done by now!" Her schedule is extremely different than ours. She wakes up every day at eight in the morning. She has lessons and training. Around three in the afternoon, she eats her dinner and then begins to dress in kimono. Because a kimono is tied extraordinarily tight, only a male attendant can dress her. Then, her night starts. Sometimes, a night of entertaining can last anywhere from midnight to three in the morning!
I think what we all especially liked about her was how sweet she was. At first, I think we all were a little intimidated by her but when we finally got to ask her questions, we realized how nice she was. To be perfectly honest, I even took a selfie with her and I feel no shame. I don't think we could have possibly thanked her enough for meeting with us and talking to us!
-Sarah P., 2016
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