Japanese word of the day: konderu (crowded)

It was bittersweet to leave Tokyo behind yesterday as we headed off on the bullet train toward the mountains of Hakone. While Tokyo had some amazing sights, navigating the most populous metropolitan area in the world (39 million) was overwhelming at times.

My favorite part of Tokyo was visiting the complex with Senso-ji Buddhist temple and Asakusa Shinto shrine. However many Japanese want to visit in January for good luck, and since it was the weekend, it felt like most of them were there with us! Despite the crowds we were all able to enjoy our free time there, and it was especially meaningful to be able to see these buildings as living, breathing religious centers and not simply tourist attractions.




Our two guides from Samurai Tours, Charlie and

Ogi, were champions at not only understanding the intricacies of the many subway lines of Tokyo, but also in keeping us in safe groups and teaching us to read the subway maps. To the right is Charlie explaining how to leave our hotel stop, Roppongi-Ichome, and make our way to our next stop. We had to form three groups because, on weekdays, the subways were jammed with people going to work and it was impossible for all 17 of us to fit into one car. We got to enjoy the sensation of being squashed like a can of sardines (or sushi) against each other. However it was not as awkward as I expected, as the regulars on the subway were experienced at maintaining their personal space, keeping their eyes on their phones or books and not intruding into the space of others. No one made phone calls on the subway and even conversation was rare, in order to avoid disrupting the harmony of the other passengers.

By our last day there even I was beginning to think, "Okay, maybe I could figure this out by myself if I had to." Below is a picture of Charlie on our last morning in Tokyo explaining the transfers we would have to make to travel from our hotel to Hakone. Mind you, once we got to Hakone we took an additional train, gondola, boat and bus before finally checking in to our hotel!

I'll never forget the image of Charlie with his little yellow flag extended up high so we can see it, and all the girls following him single-file like ducklings. I know the girls will never be able to think of Tokyo without remembering his calm, wise presence as well!

~ Susan Timmons