Oh My Geiko!

For our last night in Japan, we had the privilege of attending a lovely shabu-shabu dinner. While the food was great, the company was even better. We were joined for dinner not only by two of our tour guides from the trip but a real Japanese maiko! When she first floated into the room, we were all struck by her beauty. That, and we were no longer the palest people in Japan. Her makeup was amazing, a white foundation that covered her entire face and stunning red eyeshadow. To be perfectly honest, I'm considering putting her makeup style on the look-book for possible winter formal options. Later, I asked her what it felt like the first time she put on her makeup and looked into the mirror. She replied that she felt as if she no longer looked like herself. She asked, "Would you like to wear all white makeup every day?" The answer: If that is an option, yes.

She performed two different dances for us. Both of which she had no facial expressions, copying the tradition of the Noh theater. While dancing, she was captivating. I couldn't take my eyes off her! By the time she was finished dancing, we were all eager to ask her questions. First, we each got to take pictures with her but we were all afraid to get too close to her and somehow mess up her perfectly tied kimono by stepping on the sleeves.

We learned many things about her. She is nineteen years old, only two years older than I am! It is strange to think that despite being so close in age, we couldn't be more different in lifestyle. While my daily life consists of studying for tests and hanging out with friends, her life consists of taking lessons in tea ceremony and spending hours entertaining clients.

The process of becoming a maiko is long. Girls are no longer sold into an okiya by their family like they used to be but now it is completely by choice. There are only about two hundred maiko and geiko in Kyoto. While applying to become a maiko, you must be interviewed by the house mother and if she likes you, you're in. Apparently, many girls apply to become maiko online these day, which we all found rather humorous due to the low-tech life they lead. Speaking of which, maiko (apprentice geiko) work for five years before becoming full-fledged geiko and during those five years there is no technology allowed. No cellphones, no computers, no iPads. You can forget about sending her a friend request on Facebook. They aren't allowed to contact any of their old friends and if they see them on the streets, they are only allowed to speak in traditional Kyoto dialect. But even more so, imagine a life where you can only see your family once a year. Our maiko explained to us that she works basically every day of the year, but on rare days off she can wear jeans, let down her hair, and go to McDonalds. Yes, you read right, McDonalds. Next time you feel bad eating the classic guilt food that comes in a colorful white and red bag, just remember that you are eating the personal favorite food of a traditional Japanese maiko and maybe then your Happy Meal will seem just a bit happier. After the five years of being a maiko are over, during which there is no payment, a maiko can decide if she wants to become a geiko or not. If she decides to, then she will be self-employed. This means that she can live in a condominium in the district, own a cell phone, and make her own rules.

Why did she want to become a maiko? The answer was simple: she loved kimonos. Her grandmother owned a kimono shop in which she used to dress up when she was little. At the age of fourteen, she told her parents what she wanted to do. At first, they did not approve. This life was not their wish for her. Now, she said, they understand.

More than anything, we were fascinated by her daily life. She lives in a house in Gion with many other maiko. They are all looked after by a house mother who owns the kimonos they wear and provides all of their meals. Her hair is styled once a week and yes, the elaborate hairstyles of a maiko are not wigs but their true hair. It takes about an hour to do each style which Gracie laughed at because it takes two hours to cut her hair! Next time you get your hair styled, you can think to yourself after the one hour mark, "If I were a maiko, I'd be done by now!" Her schedule is extremely different than ours. She wakes up every day at eight in the morning. She has lessons and training. Around three in the afternoon, she eats her dinner and then begins to dress in kimono. Because a kimono is tied extraordinarily tight, only a male attendant can dress her. Then, her night starts. Sometimes, a night of entertaining can last anywhere from midnight to three in the morning!

I think what we all especially liked about her was how sweet she was. At first, I think we all were a little intimidated by her but when we finally got to ask her questions, we realized how nice she was. To be perfectly honest, I even took a selfie with her and I feel no shame. I don't think we could have possibly thanked her enough for meeting with us and talking to us!

-Sarah P., 2016

Foreign Fare: Japanese Dishes

When I was first told that I would be coming on this trip, my first thought was of the food. Will I like it?  Will it be totally different than the Japanese we have at home? The answer to both of these questions in some shape or form is yes.
As we near the end of this trip, I have to reflect on my first true experience with Japanese cuisine. On our very first day in Japan, we were taken to a noodle shop named Chiyojin and told not to worry; our meal had already been ordered. No need to look at the menu. In front of us lay an arrangement of what later was revealed to be potato salad, vegetable rice, Japanese stew, udon noodles, and coffee gelatin. Like many of my friends, I was hesitant to dig in. Sure, it smelled amazing, but what if it didn't taste like the food I was used to? (Spoiler alert: It didn't, but that didn't stop me from devouring the whole tray.)

                                                   (Photo of our first taste of heaven)
As it turns out, Japanese cuisine in any form is delicious. Granted, I draw the line at tentacles, but I'm told that eel and squid are quite delectable, albeit squishy. One member of our group had an... experience with an octopus ball at the Meiji Shrine, but that is another story for another day. Let's just say that we ate our way through Japan, shall we?

Tonight, we closed our journey with an exquisite shabu-shabu dinner at a very fancy restaurant called Ganko Nijyo En. Shabu-shabu is an interactive hot pot dish in that the diners are the ones that fry meat and vegetables in hot broth set before them. I'm told that everyone enjoyed their meal, and I can personally say that the fried tofu was a tasty highlight.

                                                         (Our appetizing final meal)
 I am saddened to leave this land of mouth-watering, if not anonymous meals. Sometimes, the best dining delights are the ones where you have no idea what you are about to put in your mouth. I will return to Nashville with a giant prawn-sized hole in my heart.

Helen W. Class of 2016

Kimonos in Kyoto

On Monday morning, we traveled to the Nishijin Textile Center, one of the local Kimono shops where we were able to see a kimono fashion show, do some shopping, see how the kimonos and obis are made, and even try on some kimonos. The fashion show consisted of the models coming out on to the stage in different styles of kimonos with various designs. Each of the kimonos were different colors and served different purposes. Here are some pictures from the show.

After the fashion show, we were taken into a room at the back of the shop where there were a few racks of kimonos for us to get dressed up in. We each picked out a kimono and were helped into them. The women that were helping us used many different pieces that each had their own purposes. Once we were completely dressed in the kimonos, the obis were quite tight; they seemed almost to be the Japanese version of the corset. It was really quite interesting to see the similarities in garments worn between the traditional Japanese kimono and the traditional dress of Europe.

Once we were dressed, we were allowed to go and look around the shop and see if we wanted to buy anything. It was a little hard to do because the kimono skirts restricted leg movement, so in order to walk, you had to take small, quick steps and going up and down the stairs was quite difficult. While we were shopping we were able to see some looms that are used in the making of the kimonos and the obis. One of the women working the looms was making an obi and she explained some of the work she was doing. For the particular obi design she was working on she had to use nine different colors of thread to complete the design of the obi. There were a series of pedals that she pushed in order to raise certain threads to put certain colored threads through, thus creating the design.

Although kimonos are not worn on a day to day basis in Japan because the simply are not practical (it takes twenty minutes to get dressed in a kimono correctly), they are still very expensive (can be up to ten thousand U.S. dollars) and can be passed down from generation to generation and become family treasures. Kimonos are a particularly big deal when it comes to Coming of Age Day which, luckily we were in Japan for. On coming of age day we were able to see many girls who had just turned twenty walking around in their kimonos which were quite possibly their first kimonos and the kimonos which their relatives had worn before them that had been passed down to them through the generations.

-Tess M. (Class of 2016)

Tea-rific! : Japanese Tea and Other Arts at the Cultural Performance

      On Sunday night, we attended a Japanese cultural arts performance in Kyoto, which displayed all of Japan's traditional crafts that are centuries-old. The show included the Koto, or the Japanese harp; the Kado, the art of flower arrangement; Gagaku, court music; Kyogen, ancient theatre similar to Noh; Kyomai, or Kyoto-style dance performed by the Maikos (Geishas in training); and lastly, Chado, or the Tea Ceremony.
   

The show reflected what we have not seen as much of this trip - tradition. The Japan we have seen thus far has been the modernized, busy cities full of people, even in the more rural areas. However, this performance was as is if we stepped back in time to see the historical Japan, based in unique tradition and a reverent nation.
       The Chado. or tea ceremony, began the show. Two women performed the ceremony, using the utmost precision and respect to carry it out. They opened the sliding door, entering one at a time. After bowing to the guests, they used all the utensils needed for the ceremony, such as the ladle, the tea cups, the folded napkins, the bamboo whisk, and more. Although it was the condensed version of the ceremony, many of the same values and meanings still remained intact. The spirit of the Chado can be defined by the values of grace, tranquility, purification, and spirituality. The tea master who established the modern ceremony, Sen no Rikyu, used the term "Wa Kei Sei Jaku" to describe the ceremony's goal of utilizing beauty in simplicity.
       Although quite terse, it was still fascinating to see this ancient tradition, among all the others as well. It was the most sacred and intimate of their cultural rituals, and it felt that way watching it.
     Before the trip, I expected to see most of these rich traditions still very much in play, but was surprised to find most of our itinerary consist of busy, crowded, westernized cities. As much as I loved everything that we saw, I still wanted to see these ancient cultural acts. Tonight's performance certainly proved to me that Japan still partakes in their rich traditions and takes them quite seriously.
      That's what I love about Japan: the juxtaposition of their westernized, modern culture with their unique, culturally rich history. The country has progressed greatly within their society, especially after the modernization of the Meiji Restoration of the latter half of the nineteenth century, but it's nice that they do not not forget their traditions and find a way to amalgamate their rich past with their promising present.






Bethany J. (Class of 2015)

Gardens and Castles and Monkeys, oh my!

Konnichiwa! This day was a day filled with gardens, castles, temples and...monkeys. Yes, monkeys.

First thing in the morning, we met downstairs after a delicious, western style (hallelujah) breakfast to head to our first site of the day: the monkey park.

After lots of burning calves and heavy breathing, we reached the top of "monkey mountain" to find our small primate cousins running around looking for food. I was a little unsure about how I felt about these creatures. They were adorable, therefore I wanted to pet them; they were also completely terrifying, and I wanted to be as far as possible from them. The latter feeling won, and many of the girls (including myself) spend most of our time clinging on to each other and Keen Sensei and shrieking as the monkeys ran around eating the food the workers threw out for them. But they sure were cute. It was an interesting way to start the day.

 
This is a view of Kyoto, photobombed by a monkey. I think his name was Wrinkles.

No monkeys in this picture. Except for Tat.

Now, enough about the monkeys. Although I was completely fascinated by the subjects of this excursion, my assignment is to discuss Japanese gardens, which we have seen many of. And, I can confirm that they are beautiful. I am going to try to convince my green-thumb father to help me start a mini one on our backyard (Dad, if you're reading this, it's time we start a Japanese garden. More details to come when I get home.)

The gardens we saw on this day really showed us how the Japanese truly value and take good care of their gardens, down to each and every stone or tree. Our first garden we saw today was at the Golden Pavilion. This giant, gold-leaf covered temple is surrounded by a pond filled with carp and "islands" that represent the islands of Japan. These "islands," AKA small pieces of land in a pond that are about as big as a car, usually had multiple large rocks or bonsai trees. Typically, the rocks or trees were arranged in a way to represent an animal. The most common animal representations seen in Japanese gardens (NOT Zen gardens, that is a whole 'nother ball game) are a turtle and a crane, which was the case here. These animals represent long life and bring good luck (and who doesn't want that?)





The second garden, and perhaps the most interesting one, was the garden at Nijo Castle. This castle, known as the Samurai castle, was built about 400 years ago by the Tokugawa Shogunate. It is famous for its creaky woodwork (to warn its inhabitants of ninjas who had broken in. Yes, ninjas... I'm serious.) and its bridges that had been used as a set for the movie, The Last Samurai. However, it's garden was very interesting. It was a traditional Japanese garden, because it had water and lots of greenery, unlike Zen gardens, which are dry. Yet, as our guide Tammy pointed out, there are no flowers.

That's when I got confused. From what I had previously studied, traditional Japanese gardens are *supposed* to have flowers. It's just kind of a thing. So what is up with this one??

...See. No flowers.

Well turns out, the Shogun was intent on a long life, like any normal person would be, but he decided that measures should be taken to help ensure a long life, right down to his garden. So he therefore wanted the garden to only represent eternal things, such as rocks, water and evergreen trees. Unfortunately, flowers do not fall in that category, so he therefore banned them from being planted. That's dedication right there.

This garden also included islands in the pond that represented a turtle and a crane. All the stones in the garden were donated by feudal lords.

Lots and lots of rocks.

Sophie C, Class of 2015 

Hiroshima, Noodle Pancakes and Babies: Life Changers

     I woke up on Friday, Jan. 16 with my futon blankets thrown essentially six feet away from me.  Half of that morning was spent trying to understand how the physics of this Earth enabled me to unconsciously discard upwards of two pounds of fabric across space and time into Brianna's futon.
     Anyway, even though I broke physics in my sleep, I woke up ready for a new day in Japan.  We were to leave Miyajima Island that morning, which meant that we were leaving the more relaxed environment of a small island and re-entering the crowded metros and multiple "sumimasens" of a big Japanese city.
     After lugging my overstuffed suitcase across the island, we were set to go on the ferry back to Hiroshima.  We had done a "drive-by" look at Hiroshima the day before, when we were on the metro on the way to the ferry station.  However, I was excited for walking through the city and seeing it with a first-person view.
     I know that when someone hears of the Japanese city of "Hiroshima", he or she thinks of the atomic bombing of it on August 6, 1945 at 8:15 a.m. during WWII.  I wish I could say that when I entered the city, I didn't immediately think about the bombing.  Yet I did.  And that was really the only thing I could think about.
     We entered the Hiroshima Peace Park early in the morning, after we departed from our ferry.  We first saw the bombed out building of the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, which is now known as the A-Bomb Dome.

      The scaffolding is part of a restoration project of the city of Hiroshima.  This restoration will continue the building's preservation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
      When I looked at the building, the first thought that came to my mind was how its structural engineering enabled it to survive the blast from an atomic bomb.
     Our tour guide, Tammi, answered that question for me.  She stated that even though the A-Bomb Dome was incredibly close to the hypo-center (the point of detonation) of the atomic bomb, it survived because the force of the blast hit the building vertically rather than horizontally.  That, along with its concrete, metal and brick construction, enabled it to survive.
     Then Tammi told us that everyone inside had been killed instantly.
      I had never thought that people could be inside.  I had always imagined the building as it is today: grey and crumbling.  I had always thought that the A-Bomb Dome had always looked like that.  I had somehow forgotten that people had worked in that building.  And they had died.
     We moved on.
     The next memorial sight we saw was one to the schoolchildren essentially "drafted" into the war effort.  Although they did not fight in the military, these children, often as early as age 12, worked to demolish uninhabited wooden buildings and construct fire lanes.  These efforts would help prevent the spread of fire if Hiroshima was ever bombed with incendiary bombs.

     The paper banners are actually hundreds of a paper cranes.  I'll get to their significance later, when we move onto the Children's Memorial.
     One thing I really liked about this memorial was the incorporation of multiple religions into its design.  One can see the five story pagoda structure of Buddhism.  The woman is wearing a belt connected to Shinto.  She also has angel wings which come from Christianity.  I believe that the combination of multiple religions in one memorial structure allows people of multiple faiths to connect with the schoolchildren who perished.  It can also represent a future of peaceful co-existence among all religions, which I find beautiful.  It was nice seeing that level of hope within a memorial to children who perished.
     The next memorial we went to was the Children's Memorial.

     The Children's Memorial is most known for its thousands of paper cranes.  The significance of the paper cranes ties in with the story of Sadako Sasaki, an hibakusha (an Atomic Bomb survivor) who survived the initial bombing at Hiroshima.  However, she developed leukemia at age twelve.  She believed that if she folded a thousand paper cranes, then her disease could be cured.  Even though she folded many cranes, she ultimately passed away.
     The Children's Memorial was thus built in her name.  School children from all over the world send paper cranes to this memorial to promote world peace.
      We visited many other memorials during the day.  These include the Peace Bell, which we all had the opportunity to ring.  I think two people rang the bell, as the tolling was solemn enough to warrant two rings.  I admired the goldfish in the pond.

     The group then went to the museum.  There, we saw artifacts of the Hiroshima bombing.  Seeing the scorched remains of clothing and other personal items made the bombing seem a lot more personal.  Everyone was very solemn at this time.
     After the museum, it was time to meet with the survivor of the atomic bomb.  However, she was sick and unable to make it.  We still were able to hear her story, though, through someone else telling it.  With her artwork accompanying the man's words, the desired effect still occurred; we were all listening intently to her story of persevering through literal hell.
    The survivor of the atomic bomb experienced its effects as she worked to tear down wooden houses and build fire lanes (like those remembered in the Memorial to Schoolchildren).  Even though she was badly burned by the bomb, she managed to make it back home and to safety.
      She also did all of this when she was twelve years old.  I can't imagine having to do that myself.  However, she inspires me to also persevere through difficult times.  I hope that I will never have to experience an atomic bomb; her story also allows me to confidently say that I will never support the use of atomic bombs.


      This was our last stop for our visit to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park.  I believe that we were all impacted by our experiences within the park.  Even though not much was communicated between us, I believe that we walked away with a message of world peace to spread.  I believe it can happen.  I think the rest of the group believes it too.
     Lunch in Hiroshima, I think, represents my experience in Hiroshima very well.  We got noodle pancakes (that's not their official name, but I can't pronounce the Japanese name for them), and by the time I had received my pancake, I was ready to eat the table.


   
      It took me about ten seconds for me to demolish my noodle pancake.  Another ten seconds to realize that that noodle pancake was the best thing I had ever eaten.
      Then I realized the connotations of that noodle pancake.  Before eating it, I had only thought of Hiroshima for the atomic bomb dropped on it.  I could only think about the death, destruction and the misery of war.  That noodle pancake changed everything.  I could now see Hiroshima as the city affected by an atomic bomb.  However, I now also remember Hiroshima for its delicious noodle pancakes.  I most definitely did not forget Hiroshima's past.  However, I can remember it for something culturally beautiful and delicious.
       Perhaps I'm giving too much credit to a noodle pancake.  Maybe I felt all those things about that noodle pancake because I was so hungry.
       But I believe that my experiences with the noodle pancake cemented my hope in the future, one where world peace is attainable.
      I left that noodle pancake restaurant feeling very satisfied.

      My next realization of the day came when Tat and I met our host family.  If you did not already know this, our host family has a zero year old baby (her birthday is on Jan. 30) who is named Otoha, which means "the sound of leaves rustling in the wind".
      When I usually see a baby, I try to awkwardly avoid him or her.  I don't feel very comfortable around them because I feel like they irrevocably and instantly hate me.
     This was not the case with Otoha.  I felt drawn to her because of the innocence of her new life.  I looked at her and thought of the future.  In that moment, I understood the phrase "babies are the future".  I could see it within her.
     After a depressing day, it was refreshing to see a new life, one that has barely seen what the world can offer.  I hope that she sees all sides of the world: the good, bad and everything in between.
     Who knew my perspective of Hiroshima, atomic bombs and world peace could be changed by noodle pancakes and a baby not yet walking.  I certainly could not predict it.  Could you?

Shelby P. Class of 2015
   

Japan's Most Famous Torii

So far, we have seen just about everything you think of when you think of Japan. We have seen the Great Buddha in Kamakura, we have been to the Ghibli Museum, we have seen a Sumo Tournament, and, as of today, we have finally seen the red torii in the water at the Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island.

The front of the Itsukushima Shrine

We were able to get really close to the torii during low tide.

After taking this picture, we walked through Itsukushima Shrine itself. The shrine was first built in 593, and then rebuilt in 1168 above the water. During high tide, visitors can only get to the shrine by taking the bridge. During low tide, however, visitors can walk up to the shrine on the exposed land between the shrine and the torii. When I walked through Itsukushima, I felt the strategic building of the shrine. The information sheet given to me when I paid for my entrance said, “The contrast of the blue sea, green hills and the vivid vermilion-lacquered shrine is breathtakingly beautiful.” This is completely true. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it feels peaceful to be in the shrine itself because it blends itself so well with the landscape.

It is interesting to come from a very religious southern state in the US to a largely non-Christian Asian country. You would think there would be a large contrast, but there is actually quite a bit of cross-over in the religious patterns. Similar to Christianity, Shinto is everywhere. The nature of the religion suggests this, but visitors can also see this with the numerous shrines, including individual ones in the home. Everyone prays here, and everyone is involved in Shinto. The only difference in practicing patterns seems to be the fact that Shinto is only on the island of Japan, whereas Christianity spreads the globe. This fact right here seems to be what draws me to the shrines. Although I don’t practice the religion, I feel like it is a welcoming religion. Shinto is not a missionary religion, so it pretty much welcomes anyone who is living in Japan. 

The famous torii at sunset

Morgan D. 

Class of 2015